Perched high above the ghats of Maheshwar, 250-year-old Ahilya Fort watches over the languid Narmada like a sentinel. Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar made this town her capital, and ruled from here between 1766 and 1795. Her wada (residence), set amidst gnarled neem trees, was beautifully restored into a fort hotel by her descendant Richard Holkar.
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